Asparagus Okonomiyaki and a Poached Egg
You know the sign of a excellent restaurant is one that you walk by at the opening hour of 5pm with a glance at empty tables assuring you of a seat, only to be proven wrong with an hour-long wait when you return a mere 30 minutes later {at a time which still rivals the early-bird special.} But this should come as no surprise for diners at The Dutch, Andrew Carmellini’s latest and greatest outpost in the heart of SoHo.
The good news: if your dining preferences are flexible, you can score a lively seat at the bar or window-counter, where you can digest the scene of high-powered, loafer-wearing dudes and well-heeled ladies who are happily sucking down oysters, while washing it down with a whiskey or wine.
But this scene will only distract you momentarily until the waitress presents the deliciously spicy cornbread and a menu that will leave you torn and asking for recommendations. My eye was immediately caught by the Asparagus Okonomiyaki with a Poached Egg — for those who aren’t familiar with okonomiyaki, a Japanese savory egg pancake that can be topped with a variety of ingredients, The Dutch’s nod to this traditional dish’s flavors was genius. With a topping of rich yolky goodness, uniquely papery bonito flakes and a traditional sweet worcestershire-like sauce, the asparagus spears were merely a raft carrying the unlikely {and absolutely perfect} Japanese flavors…at a restaurant that describes itself as being “American-focused fare.” If I hadn’t already polished off the cornbread, the plate would have been wiped — and I mean wiped — 100% clean.
Grilled Swordfish, Summer Beans, Mustard and Pine Nuts
It’s summer and right about now the Swordfish are hanging out in local waters, so with the temperature rising, this sea born Grilled Swordfish and Summer Bean entree with Mustard and Pine Nuts was an appealing choice. I also stand firmly behind the claim that mustard is the best secret ingredient that can be added to a dish — it’s sharp, peppery, colorful and ready to go at a moments notice. And given that swordfish is a meatier fin-friend, it easily stands up to the strength of the mustard. The dish was straightforward and simple, and for that I loved it.
The Skim: Whether you’re looking for a scene or a sensational supper, The Dutch is the SoHo selection for you. If you’re able to get a reservation, great, otherwise go early or willing to wait — but whatever the way, just go!
Map: 131 Sullivan @Prince
Reservations: Taken! {start calling}
Phone: 212-677-6200
8.ate@eight 